Attempted Betzina; I’ve seen better

For this week’s project I tried some (drum roll) fashion sewing for me. You go into the project imagining the final result will look good on you when you wear it. 🙂

The remnant to be used consists of a collection of notions left over from prior projects.

Old, old elastic and twill tapeThe 1/4″ elastic is quite old. The twill tape is from the year 2000. The fabric, I must admit, is newer and not purchased as remnants, although I bought a fixed amount and then didn’t have enough to make the project in long sleeves, so I settled for the short-sleeve top. The fabric is Dryflex high performance knit in 90% polyester and 10% lycra. My idea was to make some workout clothes.

I was seduced by a Vogue pattern sale to buy V1197, a “Today’s Fit by Sandra Betzina” design. I had never before tried the “Today’s Fit” line-up. Betzina offers a different sizing chart than the mainstream pattern companies, but I still can’t pigeonhole my dimensions into one of her sizes A to J. So, fitting was necessary. She has lots of instructions about how to alter the pattern. Hers is a very friendly narrative included in the pattern, although I am still too much of a novice to readily grasp a lot of it, and so the seam ripper and I became great friends during this project. From what I see on the blogs, lots of people who sew make a mock-up in a cheap fabric first, to see if it fits and if not, figure out what they must do to alter it. Once you get some patterns you like, just keep using them. Provided you stay the same size and shape, ha ha ha ha.

I discovered that Dryflex knit does not make a great medium-sized cowl neck with interfacing. Should have left off the interfacing and left it to drape as best it could. Also, the fabric did not take to Steam A Seam II iron-on hem tape, which she recommends using for all the hemming. And, I bought a taping/elastic foot for my serger to do the waistband, but it didn’t work ($30 down the drain). The double-needle hemming with woolly nylon thread in the bobbin was a total disaster. The waistband is about 2″ too big, although I promise I used my “true” waist measurement. Maybe the older elastic was a little too stretchy?

I’m glad that I did this;  it is undoubtedly part of the acre of cloth that Kenneth King (see the Threads web site) says one must destroy before they can get good at sewing and designing.

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